“If I do not go now, I will never go”

Michael Pruchnie Trip to Baikal on the Trans Siberian Express

This was my feeling from about October 2021 until I actually got on the plane. In retrospect it was a deep feeling based on my health and age but also, it was really profound bearing in mind what happened towards the end of February 2022 with the invasion of Ukraine. It shows that you never know about plans and life until you see things in retrospect. The trip was well planned but with Covid still present, when I was in Moscow, a number of the plans changed and due to the changes, I met some wonderful people and had really extraordinary experiences and cultural lessons.
One of my closest friends asked me why did I want to go, at that precise time and in the middle of winter? Good question but my answer was very simple “Because “. He looked at me quizzically and just said “but why”. My answer again simple was “because I wanted to, for many reasons some simple to understand, others more complex. Therefor my answer of “because “is a simple and all-encompassing answer. I hope the following diary will answer some of his (and other peoples) questions.

Introduction and background notes:

Although I had lived in and travelled throughout Russia for over 20 years, this was a trip which I had always wanted to take but never had the time or possibility. I wanted particularly to visit Lake Baikal in the winter as I had read and heard so much about its natural splendour and peace. Also, my cousin Malcom Wolfson visited there years ago (during the summer) and his stories and photos were certainly an eye opener and made me want to visit it more and more over the years.
So here is the Trans Siberia line itself and the route across Russia

I also wanted to experience all the delights of the trans Siberia express itself and having already undertaken one unforgettable journey 18 years ago in the company of three drunk Russian” babushkas” in a compartment overnight, I understood what shared travel might be like, but preferred to reserve a compartment for myself. This would not be on the luxurious Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express (with all the private facilities and deluxe accommodation and treatment) but on the normal express trains (number Russia 002 from Moscow to Yekaterinburg and then the 062 to Vladivostok).
I was prepared for the isolation (especially whilst on the train) from the outside world and being very comfortable with my own company, I was quite confident that I would manage with little interaction with the outside world but not certain what long period of silence would be like. I would soon find out without any doubt. I also knew from my time in Russia that it was not a good idea to stand out from others and that silence was the best protection to highlighting the fact that I am not Russian and open possibilities of issues and problems.
Would the trip be as exciting as this? Lots of challenges and adventures to come but also stress and other unexcepted experiences as well. I felt ready for it but was certain that I would learn a lot about myself, various Russian ethic cultures and traditions, nature and have lots of unforgettable experiences.
This was the picture I had in my mind prior to the start of the trip

How would I cope with the isolation on the train and physical exertions of some of the side trips that I knew I would face as well as could I cope with undertaking such a trip with the rigours of Russian bureaucracy, Covid (which was still a major issue in Russia) and the growing fears of war with Ukraine and possibly the rest of Europe? In this respect, I had coped with the after- effects of the invasion of Georgia and Crimea whilst living and working in Moscow but how would the effects of a massive war affect me (as a foreigner) and also my trip? This was the unknown but I was about to find out. It was a personal quest and also a personal challenge.
I was prepared for every eventuality as much as I could be and it was just matter of waiting and seeing if the trip would actually happen and how developments might change to plans.
The planning for the trip and the side- trips was guided by the travel agent (Real Russia) who appointed a wonderful woman to handle the trip. Olga Zineeva based in Volgograd set out a basic plan (I assume from a template) and then tailored it for me to meet my objectives and ideas. It was very much a joint project and we built a trip which would meet all my objectives (and more). She arranged my visa (a multi entry 6-month visa under a new scheme established by the Russian government) and worked hard to make the plans work easily. She also kept in touch throughout the trip making certain that everything was going accordingly to plan and that I was satisfied with the planning and the service supplied. This was really critical as there would be last minute changes either notified to her or me and she worked hard to resolve issues. Her input, advice and caring attention was superb and really appreciated and our friendship continued after my return. I am proud to say that she and her family remain friends of mine since the trip finished and her time at Real Russia finished as their business collapsed.

The Flight to Moscow:

28th January 2022
I checked in the for the flight early as always seat already reserved and visa checked and approved as well as the vaccination certificates. So, I was actually going on the flight or would things be cancelled at the last moment?
This was the first time since Covid since I had flown and I had forgotten so much, it was very surprising, but things came back to me very quickly. I walked through to the fast-track security lane, forgetting to take my computer out, empty my pockets and all the other things that used to be second nature to me. Thankfully it was very early and there were only a few people behind me. The security staff were patient and did not snigger too much. I was honestly embarrassed and angry at myself
I walked straight through security and then to the lounge for peace and quiet. I was still not really convinced that all would be ok but the adventure had started and I was beginning to think that all would be ok and then trying to prepare myself for the arrival process once in Moscow. Looking out of the window of the lounge the red sky and I was hopeful that the old message of “ red sky in the morning ..shepherd’s warning” was not true in my case .
I decided that for my trip it was a good omen, I hoped.

I found a good seat close to the bar and quietly read the paper, drank tea and people watched. In the past there were lots of Russians around for the flight. But this time there were only a few Russians (most of whom were going skiing apparently). It would be interesting to see how many people would be on the plane.
The flight was relatively, smooth, on time and uneventful, it was very empty, peaceful and quiet, which was perfect. I had plenty of time to rest, reflect and prepare myself for the normal chaos that I had always experienced in the past in passport control and then customs. Of course, I had forgotten that Covid was still serious around the world (especially in Russia) and that people had not travelled for a long time. Russia had only just opened to vaccinated tourists and as the Covid rates were still very high in Russia. Of course, in terms of Russia itself, in addition to Covid, people were still not prepared to travel to Moscow with the concern about the looming crisis and possible war in Ukraine.
The plane avoided Ukraine and the areas of possible conflict but the closer we flew to Moscow; it was clear that winter was in full flow and that as expected it would be very cold in Moscow with heavy snow on the ground.

​On arrival there was a new procedure, temperature scans firstly as a medical team walked through the cabins fully masked and gowned up, and then disembarkation by row, being on the second row and no one was in front of me, I was one of the first to exit the flight. No obvious additional security and I was shocked that the passport section was empty (in the past it often took up to an hour to pass through passport control). I was also even more surprised that they were very relaxed and just took my entry forms, scanned my visa and then very politely (and almost smiling) waved me through without any delays or dour faces as in the past. Unbelievable change from the past.
Then prior to baggage claim there was a Covid PCR test section which checked my certificates with a cursory glance and then I was separated from the Russians who had just to do a lateral flow test. I was told that prior to leaving on the train journey there would be a need for 2 additional tests within the 8 days but that it could be done close to the hotel and the results would be sent to the Ministry and if it was positive, they would contact me in the hotel but could isolate there.  Very reassuring. I was free in the meantime to wander around without any restrictions. Rules in restaurants and public areas had to be followed (masks etc.), but nothing onerous or restrictive (apart from museums where there was a need for QR codes which were not available for foreigners as far as I was told.
My luggage was collected from the conveyor belt and then it was through to the customs section, whose inspectors looked very bored as there were not many incoming flights to handle. To keep busy they made everyone to scan the luggage and finally it was out to meet the driver and to the hotel. Very straight forward painless and civilised. The first time in over 20 years.

The Trans Siberia Line itself; A brief introduction

The railway is often associated with the main transcontinental Russian line that connects hundreds of large and small cities of the European and Asian parts of Russia. Moscow–Vladivostok distance is 9,289 kilometres (5,772 miles) and it spans a eight time zones. Taking eight days to complete the journey without stopping and going on side trips, it is the third-longest single continuous service in the world.
I followed the commonly used main line route firstly using the Rossiya 002 train to Yekaterinburg and then on the 062 as far as Vladivostok.
And so it began “Michael to Baikal”
​

Moscow:

It took an hour to drive to the hotel and I dozed in the back seat listening to some quiet music whilst the river was on the phone all the time. I had stayed in the Marriot Grand for many years and spent weeks at a time there, so from previous times, I knew many of the staff and the hotel in detail. The hotel was exactly the just the same as I remembered but people were almost completely changed and on entering the hotel it felt empty and seemed soulless from the last time I was there. Of the original staff only the deputy manager, one front desk manager and one concierge were the same They welcomed me very warmly but it was not the same experience and level of feeling at home. The reception area and bar were both empty and lifeless. I was told that the whole team had changed and the new staff were untrained and inexperienced. Half the hotel was empty and I was one of a very few foreigners (I only saw 3 during the time that I was there). They had lost all their non-Russian staff (mostly from the Caucuses and Caspian countries) during the first Covid wave (returned to their countries of nationality) and after being returned to a hotel from a covid medical team base, the hotel was building up again and having the train new staff (if they could recruit them). Just the same problems as we have at home. The eight days were taken up by meeting old friends and their families (talking with them, catching up and going for meals and at last no business meetings at all. such a relief). Most of the meetings were in the hotel and restaurants but some of them were in people’s apartments as well. It was good to see very close and familiar faces again, people who were and, in many cases, still are good close friends. I am proud of our friendships and closeness and enjoyed just being with them and appreciate our common bonds and experiences. I also visited the graves of two people that I worked with and sadly they passed away in the 3 years since I last left Russia. I went with their family and friends and felt that it was respectful to spend a little time with the family and connections of people that I had a close connection with. It meant a lot to me and as far as I know also to them as well. No one spoke about the issues surrounding the future, we all concentrated on family and friendship (and its importance to us) and also reminiscing about the past. This was a relief for me as I had experienced situations of regional stress in the past and did not want to relive this again.
Everyone understood what was most probably coming to Europe without expressing it, we just concentrated on other matters which were much more important to us, but I could not escape from the feeling of impending serious diplomatic, military and economic disasters just days away. I learnt that sometimes close friends understand things very clearly without talking about them and this was certainly the case in Moscow. It did however increase my cautiousness and care when walking around Moscow and eating in restaurants or coffee shops as there was a lot of anti-European, US and UK sentiments in the press and also on the internet which was significantly worse that I remembered during Georgia and Crimea (where I did experience serious and challenging issues in Moscow). Walking through familiar places. I had forgotten that walking on ice laying on marble pavements was a challenge and my first walk into the fresh air was short and sharp slipping on the ice, falling on my back, breaking my phone along the way and the surrounding Russians laughing at me. I had a vision of them scoring my style quite highly as it was quite a tumble and almost gymnastic. Thankfully there was no damage to me (apart from my pride and the broken phone as well. After that it was a more cautious walking style for quite a while and thankfully there were no cameras to record the scene.
I spent a lot of time walking through Moscow carefully after my first fall of the trip, (even though it was very cold and snowy) to visit places I knew and used to frequent. Of course, I also tried to go to familiar restaurants and shops as well. Sadly, over the Covid pandemic (as in the UK) many shops, restaurants and cafés had closed, or moved, which was a sign of the times but very sad as these all had strong memories. The memories are there but the places not. There was the same problem with empty shops and units just as in the UK. Even though I know the main areas of Moscow very well, I decided to go on a few private walking tours (which were very interesting) and I learnt more about the city that I lived in for many years. Why did I not do these tours earlier? As required, I had to take three further PCR tests (one was a faulty test and had to be retaken). I had no control over these tests and was concerned about a positive result as that would mean isolation in the hotel, additional costs and also the trip having to be delayed for that time. As I know my way around the central area of Moscow and learnt over the years how to dress down and conduct myself, I had no issues or concerns about walking around (but was always mindful of surroundings). I also registered with the relevant bodies in case of changes in the situation and made a few other arrangements so that people knew where I was and how to contact me. Additionally, as I found out afterwards, one Russian friend was also keeping track of me in Moscow and on the whole trip itself right through to Vladivostok. Very reassuring and also a sign of his relationship with me. I walked, reminisced and took lots of photos on my walks to act as a memory for the whole trip. Memories of people and different emotions flowed through me as I walked down familiar streets alone in my thoughts. These became more frequent during the whole trip as I became more isolated There were too many photos in reality but here are some of the more tourist spots in Moscow.in and around Tverskiya and down to the Kremlin.
The following photos are from the Patriarch Ponds and Mikhail Bulgakov statues in central Moscow near Tverskiya and close to the apartment of one of my close friends and advisers. This is one of my favourite places, where I used to sit, talk to friends and watch the world go by, drink tea and eat in one of the numerous places around the Pond. The park has an area dedicated to Bulgakov’s stories with statues illustrating the animals in the stories. Some of these are shown below. This has very fond memories for me and I visited it a few times during my stay in Moscow. Unfortunately, as can be seen from the photos, it was not as busy as it used to be but the peace and quiet allowed my mind to reminisce about people, emotions and happy relaxing times when I was spending a lot of time in Moscow working. This was my haven and go to place.
The following photos are from the 2 sightseeing walking trips I arranged with a guide, Sveta, who took me to some interesting locations and she was a wealth of information about the various buildings and history of them. These areas are not often seen by tourists and are to the east of the centre of the city and really fascinating (three metro stops from Pushkinshiya metro station). There were some important business groups based in traditional non-descript buildings in this area and I surprised Sveta with some details about one of the business groups in particular which she was unaware of.
It was fascinating to learn about the history of a part of Moscow I most probably had travelled through but never had time to learn about. I did regret not taking a sightseeing trip like this earlier but in reality, when living in Moscow, work was the main focus of my life. One of the trips also covered a visit to an old industrial building complex (covering 6 blocks) that was totally converted into offices, photo studios, travel companies, internet development companies, dentists and doctors and even fashion houses. We saw a number of photo sessions and one fashion show as well. It was fascinating to see how old buildings can be repurposed but the main history of the previous use is still kept and preserved (historical connection and context is important although I am certain for the people working in the building it does not mean anything. internally the main fabric of the building was untouched but the separate rooms and halls had all been repurposed and renovated although not to our standards. The fashion designers and photographers were very interesting to see how the photographer created the image that he was seeking whilst guiding the model to pose exactly as he wanted. This really impressed me and gave me a much greater pride in how Ben worked when he was a fashion photographer. I even had a few photos taken of me as well for a laugh by a well-known photographer as a favour to Sveta.
I was keen to just walk around, get used to the weather and cold and also refine my walking style on snow and ice. Here are some of the sights from those walks mostly around the middle of Tverskiya and Pushkinskiya.

The start of the trip properly, the first few nights on the train

​Train from Moscow Rossiya 002 to Yekaterinburg
7th February 2022
Leaving the hotel for the Yaroslavsky train station was the real start of the trip, walking through the security screening, looking at the people waiting to board a number of long-distance trains and not certain of what to expect, I strode onto the main waiting area outside to wait for the train to arrive and then board. Oblivious to the cold, snow and ice I watched people rushing to catch trains, some rather drunk, missing trains and at least one man being dragged off a platform by security workers.
Train signs were in Russian and English and it was easy to understand the platform number and carriage position. It seemed an eternity waiting for the train in the cold and blowing snow but I did not want to wait in the station and risk missing the train (I can get distracted). It was also interesting to be honest to watch the world go by, the realise how busy the station was and also the types of people who travel by train.
On time the train arrived at platform 1 and the adventure was about the start. Walking to the platform there was a feeling of anticipation and also nervousness about the challenges I was about to meet in addition to the awareness that I am not Russian and unease about the number of police and security people in the station area. At least I was not standing out as a foreigner and also, I tried to blend in with the rest of the passengers.
On seeing the train stop and the lights go on (with carriage attendants waiting by the doors), I walked past the restaurant car and was immediately a little disappointed at how unappealing it looked and decided that until I knew my way around, I would just stay in the cabin and see how things worked. Thankfully I had plenty of packets of soup and Welsh tea for sustenance as well as lots of bottled water
Each carriage has its own manager and assistant and prior to boarding (in the snow and temperature of around minus 15°C), I had to wait in turn to pass identity checks (this was worrying as I obviously had a UK passport and stood out from the others) but there was no problem and with a polite look at my passport , the carriage manager let me go on the carriage and then it was straight to my cabin (the travel agents had booked the same carriage number and cabin number to make things easy for myself, which was really appreciated).
The lights were off in the cabin and when I slid opened the door, was very disheartening on first glance. Dark, dismal and depressing which was made worse by the fact that the temperature in the train was +28°C and I had just come from Minus 15°C, sweating profusely, I fumbled for the light switch and threw my hat onto the table.
What had I let myself in for and the thought of a 2 night stay in the dismal cabin was not really exciting me?  But I had no choice but to make the best of it and sort myself out and prepare for the journey to Yekaterinburg.

On looking around I started to have a better impression of the carriage and cabin. The corridor was spotless and the cabin appeared very clean and fresh with 4 beds and a small table by the window.  Once the lights were on, things looked more positive and when the manager came round to the cabin, he put the two upper beds away (with their sheets, towels and covers strapped in which disappointed me as I was planning to spend time in each bed as I had paid for then. But life is full of disappointments), and suddenly the room looked more inviting.
Now I felt better, the cabin was not so bad and I felt that once I had a good night sleep, I would feel positive and more focussed on enjoying the adventure of the journey.
After putting the supplies on the table, bemoaning that I had decided not to take some more food and generally sorting out the bags and electric points, the train left the station and the journey started. I sat watching the train leaving Moscow and then went straight to bed which was folded down and ready made up to sleep. The carriage manager came round and quickly folded up the top bunk beds (finishing my plan to sleep in all 4 beds) but psychologically the cabin looked roomier and brighter. My mood was definitely improving.
What I was not aware of was that every 2 to 3 hours the train stopped for about 20-30 minutes for engine changes and also as it was the middle of winter at every station (large or small) wheel- tapper would work on the brakes and springs hitting ice build-up away. So, there was no chance for continuous sleep with the noise of the hammers hitting the gears below my cabin. It was not a peaceful sleep and I had to get used to the movement of the train and occasional sharp sudden movements as well as occasional stops at smaller stations. Some drivers were smoother than others which meant that there was a regular rhythm of the train for a few hours, break for up to 30 minutes and then another driver would have his own rhythm. I had no choice but to get used to this but tiredness and some nervous exhaustion definitely helped
Once up after the first night disturbed sleep I realised that looking out of the window, listening to music and reading my book was going to be the pattern for the next few days
I then had to get used to continuously moving scenery (how many trees, villages and frozen scenes can you look at?) and watching the countryside flying by. The door of the cabin had a large mirror on it, so that the cabin looked larger and gave the impression of a larger space. The luggage was under the seats and everything packed away easily. Now it was just a matter of getting used to a new regime of passing the day, reading. listening to music and watching the world go by.
Also, during the day, the carriage attendant came in every few hours to hoover the carpet and tidy the table and room generally. They also offered tea continuously. But no conversation at all. This was something that I had to appreciate, the solitude and quiet with no real interaction with people unless I went to the restaurant car and interacted with other passengers. Not really something that I really wanted to get involved in.
I soon got into a pattern and routine and tried to take the time in the cabin as a rest from the world and the need for interaction with people. This became very therapeutic and in fact I quite liked the silence and peace. We stopped some stations along the way, passed through towns, cities and small villages and gave me time to think about many things I had not had time to focus on over the years. The train was going to be “Michael Time “.
Thankfully I was not aware of talking to myself and in fact I found myself the calmest I had been for a long time. The isolation was also highlighted the fact that I had no access to news or family communication unless the train was in a station where there was a strong phone signal and Wi-Fi signal. Most of the time there was nothing.

Yekaterinburg

9th February 2022
The train arrived on time in Yekaterinburg and I was ready for the first set of local tours. I was met by a fascinating and knowledgeable guide, Vadim and his wife Marina and the next few days had the most wonderful and informative set of tours in the company of two lovely and warm people. Vadim had his own tour company prior to Covid but had to close it due the collapse in the travel business and I was his first visitor since Covid. A well-known photographer and historian, I was really lucky to have had him take me on the tours and give me a wealth of information about Russian history in that region of Russia.
They made a big impression on me and I quickly relaxed in their company, although I became aware of not wanting to talk too much and when I did my voice was quiet and calm. I liked this new Michael.
Delivered to a comfortable hotel, a bath and bite to eat was the order of the day and dirty washing was put in the laundry bag ready for the following day. This was now my routine on arriving in a fresh hotel.
Yekaterinburg tours
10th February
This was the main tour day, very active with 4 tours rolled into one over a 12-hour period. a bit intensive but I was looking forward to a mixture of sightseeing, history and general information overload and I knew that it was going to be very intense and compact with lots of information along the way, but I was up for it, even though it was now minus 20°C and snowing most of the time.
The first part of the day was a trip around the city to get an over view as well as a visit to the Yeltsin Museum and other major sights. Yeltsin is still a well-respected person in Yekaterinburg as he originally was the governor there and the museum certainly highlights this clearly. His wife and family are now heading a number of charities and organisations in his name and memory.
Whilst being housed in a very modern centre surrounded by brash modern buildings, the Yeltsin centre was not a common designed building and it was clear that the majority of buildings were pre-Soviet or post-soviet designs and structures as shown below.
On the way to the border between European Russia and Asiatic Russia  we passed a monument to victims of the Stalinist purges of the 1930’s where many educated and academic people and families simply disappeared and after torture and execution. Thousands  are buried in the area of the memorials , many of them Jewish , most were denounced by neighbours and friends trying to save themselves .
Part of the awful history of this time in Russia and a very thought provoking memorial to the memories of those who disappeared and highlighted another period of turmoil and death under Stalin and was a theme repeated during the trip at various points. It also underlined that this city and region has a history of murder and death including the murder of the Romanov family which I would learn more about during the day . I found this whole history very unsettling and thought provoking. What would make citizens denounce their neighbours and relatives who were innocent of anything and then the perpetrators of the torture and killing live afterwards . “Following orders “ as a theme came to mind . it was just awful to consider and reflect upon and has had an impact on the way I view history and the current world situation.Something that I had never considered in the past bit definitely part of my views now.
​Next onto the Black Tulip memorial to Russian soldiers who fought and died Afghanistan in the 1980’s is very prominent in the city close to the various ministries of defence and government offices. The Black Tulip memorial is named after the nicknames of the flights repatriation the bodies of fallen soldiers. We often forget that Russia was there prior to ourselves and lost many men. It is a simple but solemn memorial and very touching
We then drove to the monument marking the border between Europe and Asia. It is really a small simple is marked by a simple monument on the main road to Moscow surrounded by forests. I was surprised about this monument’s simplicity and small size, not really what I was expecting but it was a place to visit and mark my journey with a certificate.

Unfortunately , Yekaterinburg is really the last scene in the story of the Romanovs dynasty and family. It is where they were taken to and executed and also the place where there has been great controversy regarding the exact location of the resting places of the family themselves.
Vadim and I visited a number of beautiful cathedrals, churches and buildings related to the Romanov history and last days and I have been left with a sense of grief for the family in the way that they were misled and murders and the way the daughters were tortured after being shot but not killed. How terrified they must have been in their last moments. Then to find that their remains were dumped and then secretly reburied only to be found decided later by dedicated researchers and workers is just so moving and sad. Now at least they rest in peace in St Petersburg all together with their servants.
I was also told about the man who led the execution team and how he boasted about his place in history and when he died his grave was covered with red blood paint and graffiti noting him as an evil man. Why has the world not learnt about this and why does this continue to happen? I do not understand the mentality and ignorance of people.” Following orders” and lack of humanity. Unless people learn the lessons, this sadness will continue again and again. This is one of the messages from my trip to Yekaterinburg.
Only in recent years, has the dedication of one man and his small team of investigators and historians found the bodies and got them identified by DNA analysis and they are all now reinterned in St Petersburg. The last remains that were found was of the young son and his carer whose bodies were burnt but were identified finally a few years ago.
The issue is that the Russian orthodox church decided that the final resting place of the family was in a wood near a disused copper mine shaft and subsequently consecrated the ground and built a number of churches on the spot as well as a small monetary and memorial. It was the wrong place and in 2022/2023 there will be a synod to accept the final resting place is in another location, which is simply marked by a small memorial placed there by the man and team that finally found the resting places.
A sad story that still needs completion and finalisation and Russia needs to come to terms finally with the effects of history on actions.
Another lesser-known fact is that in 1960, Yekaterinburg was the city where the USAF U2 reconnaissance plane was shot down and the pilot, Francis Gary Powers captured and there are monuments in the city marking this.
The day was very intense and also the amount of information that I was given was really significant. I could have done with a recording, but it was my first side trip and I was grateful to Vadim and Marina for everything that they did not me and the friendship they showed me during the time that we were together.

Train to Irkutsk

12th February 2022 at 03.43
Marina and Vadim picked me up at 02.30 am in the morning and as well as taking me to the station, Vadim showed me some paintings in the station telling the history of Yekaterinburg that people do not often see, it was a great end to my time in the city and in their company. Marina also gave me some supplies for the train trip which were really appreciated and them Vadim took me to the carriage and made certain that all was ok and that I was settled down ready for the next stage of the journey. I felt at home in the train, knowing the procedures and spaces as well as where the toilet was (very important). I was now going on the 62 train and the cabin was slightly different to the 002 train, a little older but still perfectly clean.
So, a couple of days ahead of me until Irkutsk and a lot more bumps along the way but this time the ticket came with one meal a day, so I could stop drinking 3-4 cups of soup per day interspersed with tea. Either fish or meat, no real choice which also came with a salad and some fruit for afterwards and various free juices as well. heaven….​Time passed and scenery changed and sunrises and sunsets were wonderful. I was lucky with the weather no blizzards to spoil the views. It was getting colder and more extreme but I was safe in the cabin in 28°C and now being fed at least one meal a day supplemented by my packet soups. I became addicted to Telma pea soup in particular …
I was in a routine now and became quite institutionalised in some senses. I found my mind drifting during the day and at night my dreams became more vivid and appeared to me to be very real.
Strangely, as I was drifting in and out of sleep on this stage of the journey , my father and very close friends came to me and we had conversations and I felt close to them and very comforted. It was a surreal experience but very comfortable. We spoke about many things and it was as if they were listening and advising at the same time.
I felt very reassured and rested after these visits which happened during this particular stage of the journey. I am not certain what caused them to occur (I had not been drinking or even eating to excess) but I remember most of the chats quite clearly now.
I even felt they were sitting on the bed next to me, just talking and listening.
Was I hallucinating or was this my isolation bringing needs and emotions to the fore?
​I really do not know but I am certain they left me comforted and rested as well. Worries seemed to drifted away. It was another experience that I had never expected and anticipated on this trip.
Has this happened since my return? No.

Irkutsk

14th February 2022 Irkutsk was the start of my regional adventure to Lake Baikal and I found the culture and history very interesting and as such I have included some background notes for future reference. My arrival into Irkutsk marked an arrival into an area close to the Buryat Republic. Buryats originally came from Mongolia and are the old settlers in this region prior to the Russians and other cultures. Their roots go back over 1000 years and more and are a distinctive culture and people. In the northern area, including Lake Baikal and Irkutsk they are Shaman followers and to the south (Ulan Ude and Mongolia) they are Buddhist. However, over the generations there has been a lot of intermarriage and this has led to a lessening of the religious aspect but strengthening of their culture. Buryat Religion and Folklore. This whole experience of the culture and traditions had a profound effect on me and in many respects made me want to revisit when possible and learn more about their life and culture. Walking in the streets there was a mixture of native Buryat’s and Russians which I found very interesting and attractive and their clothes were also very ethnic in style and taste. Their animal skin boots, perfect for the freezing weather and walking on ice were extremely interesting and very stylish which reminded me of Norwegian seal skin boots that my father once brought me after one of his trips As a further background note: The Buryat traditionally were Shamanists. Traditional beliefs still remain. Before a meal, they scatter a little bit of the food and drink as an offering to the Gods. For the Buryat white is associated with milk and good things. Silver, the white metal, is prized as an indication of wealth. The bride’s dowry usually includes silver as well as coral and sheep. According to the Buryat creation myth the 11 Buryat tribes are descendants of a man and beautiful creature that was a swan by day and a woman by night, after they were married the man asked for her wings so she could no longer change into a swan. Sometime later she asked for her wings back and then flew away never to return. Buryat, like Tibetans, adorn trees and bushes with prayer cloths From this point the interesting point was the fact that the skies were almost all perfectly clear (apart from Ulan Ude and one day on the train to Irkutsk) and throughout the rest of the trip there were some magnificent sunrises and sunsets. This had a great effect on my feeling of relaxation and positivity (no matter what was going on in the world outside) which was also helped by my lack of contact with the world outside and in many respects the isolation. Arrival into Irkutsk The train arrived at 6.30 am and Andrey was there to meet me. Minus 37°C. We had to walk to the exit of the station which was being renovated, thus a walk-in total of half a mile was the order of the morning. The cold air hit me like a brick wall, especially after being on a train for a few days at between 26-28°C. It took me a little time to get used to the cold fresh air and also to be walking on snow and ice but we were walking at a fast pace to get to the car and then drop me off at the hotel. The drive to the hotel went through the old city area and then into a central area where the hotel (reconstructed from an old hotel) was located. The drive was fascinating and as we drove I was amazed at the architecture and river structures and found this a great introduction to the city but as I was tired , he settled me in the “boutique” hotel , I had breakfast and a deep sleep for a few hours before walking in the area of the hotel to explore this part of the city with its old traditional housed and buildings.
Walking around this part of the city, there were interesting sculptures, building and cultural centres. There were really no foreign tourists apart from myself and a few others, so most are now Russians and it is interesting to note that Covid also destroyed the Chinese tourists and the precious gem markets that developed to serve them. Naturally it was a major stopping off point for trans-Siberian tourists and backpackers as well. Mongolia is only about 320 miles from Irkutsk and prior to Covid, Chinese traders and tourists dominated the city. All this collapsed and was replaced by Russian tourists who had no interest in gems and buying souvenirs. The pavements were very icy but by walking carefully and trying to look like a local, I managed without incident to explore part of the city to the Angara River bank, taking in some of the beautiful buildings and sculptures. For reference the Angara. flows out of lake Ilchir which is situated 50 km away from the highest peak of the Eastern Sayan Mountains, Munku-Sardyk. The length of the river is 488 kilometres (303 mi).
Interestingly part of the river was not frozen due to the effect of a hydroelectric power station but generally the river is frozen from late October until early May. Walking in Irkutsk as a tourist is easy as various routes are marked in coloured lines on the pavement and then interesting places are indicated on maps. This is perhaps a system which should be adopted in the UK as well. I enjoyed the walk in the ice cold fresh air (which did not seem to rise in temperature over the day, possibly due to the wind strength .

Shaman rituals on the way to Baikal:

17th February 2022 On the 4.5-hour drive in the 4-wheel drive car, I was told about the Shaman traditions and to break the journey up, we took a few side roads to see the small villages and towns along the way and also to experience Shaman traditions. First, we stopped at a “Serge” or “Barisa” – tied round with colourful scarves and ribbons to ask for a safe trip to Baikal and to ask for permission for a safe journey to the Lake itself.
On the way to the Lake, we also passed a number of temples, very simple and plain but they served local communities and farms. It was interesting to see writing that is typically Tibetan or Mongolian and also how plain the temples are in comparison with Buddhist temples that I would visit in Ulan Ude afterwards. It is interesting to see how superstitious people are in this area. My driver Andrey went to fill his car up with petrol half way to the Lake and noticed that he had lost his wallet and driving licence (which is vital in this region of Russia). We backtracked to the point that we passed the original Serge and then retraced our visits. he was becoming my and more despondent and depressed until we arrived at the temple photo’d below. He went to the office there and they had found his wallet and greeted him by saying that they knew he would be back and that he should have trusted the spirits. Anyway, this retracking put us behind schedule for the day, but that is life The photos below show a local Shaman temple in its simplicity, where the wallet was found.
Rather later than planned, we stopped for a late Buryat lunch, which could be described as meat dumplings, salads and blinchiki (blini or pancakes) with regional jam and what was interesting was that the dumplings had to be eaten is a specific way by hand, biting a small hole in the bottom of the dumpling and drinking the meat juice first and then eating the rest of the dumpling. The seasoning was just perfect, very mild but distinctive. It was really tasty and not as greasy as I was imagining. I was also fascinated in that the settlers in this region were cattle breeders and farmers and they have a breed of cows that are left out all winter and only taken inside when it is exceptionally cold. During our trip it was around minus 35-38°C and the cows were wandering freely in the field and on the roads. They really are a hardy breed. Originally the cows were all Turano-Mongolian (which can resist down to minus 50°C) but these has been a lot of interbreeding with more European breeds in recent years
The trip continued to Lake Baikal through differing landscapes. Outside Irkutsk it was afforested with various types of trees and is the backbone of the local oil, gas, non-metallic and mining industries in the region (with a large amount of criminal activity apparently) and then closer to Lake Baikal it was more barren and starker with not much vegetation at all. This was due to the very poor soil and ground in the region after the glaciers retreated. The difference was really stark
As we went close to the lake the landscape changed again, rose to a peak and then there was a steep drop to the lake itself, appearing to be shimmering in the afternoon light in the distance. I could see the little village close to the frozen Lake. The drive was down a small side road in the Maloe bay. More, very surprising and somewhat disappointing to the Lake shore and prior to going on the ice road there was a security check, passports and driving licence and confirmation of where we were staying, then over a small sandy embankment and onto the ice road itself. I was really surprised at how the area around the lake was really uncommercialised, just a few family run coffee shops and “interesting” toilets but apart from a few isolated dwellings and cottages, nothing else. But as I was told this is now classified as a protected area and only comes to life during the summers when it is popular for camping and small boarding houses for people from Irkutsk. The attraction, quiet nature, peace and calm environment and no pollution. The Lake has no mosquitoes and also summer temperatures are comparatively mild (in the mid 20’s). Winter is for small tourist groups, school trips, ice sports people and the occasional tourists such as me. Whilst I was there the average temperature did not go above minus 32°C and most of the time was around minus 38°C. The ice road was capable of taking loads of over 10 MT (and the ice can be to a depth of up to 2 meters thick) and the road itself was marked by a company who had the contract for the last 10 years and was brushed clean after snow storms. However, most people drove where they wanted but tended to stick to the road (very approximately). Supplied of fresh food, fuel and other necessities were carried daily by small trucks to Olkhon Island which is the third-largest lake island in the world. Its area is 730 km2 (280 sq. mi) and measures 71.5 km (44.4 mi) in length and 20.8 km (12.9 mi) in width. I was staying in the “capital” (or rather main settlement) Khuzhir which had a permanent population of around 1800 people. Views onto Lake Baikal ​
A few key facts about Lake Baikal to give some perspective about what I was going to experience and also where I was in Russia:
Lake Baikal is 12,248 square miles (31,722 square km). Length: 397 miles (640 km), Maximum width: 49 miles (79.5 km) Average width: 29 miles (47 km) Minimum width: 16 miles (25 km). Coastline area: 1,300 miles (2,100 km). More than 300 streams and rivers feed into Lake Baikal, but the Angara River is the only outlet. It carries out about 60 cubic km (15.8 trillion gallons) of water per year into the Yenisei River. Eventually the water makes its way to the Arctic Ocean. The Selenga River is the largest source of water coming into Lake Baikal. Flowing north from Mongolia, it contributes nearly 50 percent of the lake’s water. Like Lake Baikal, the Selenga Delta is internationally recognized for its biodiversity and importance, according to the Ramsar Convention. Lake Baikal is the only very deep lake to have oxygenated water at its lowest depths, like the ocean and additionally, the earth under Lake Baikal is heated. The cause of the heat is unknown. It is considered one of the clearest lakes in the world, During the summer, when the lake is full of melted ice from the Siberian mountains, it is sometimes possible to see more than 130 feet (39m) down. The stunning clarity is the result of the melted ice’s purity, plankton that eat floating debris and a lack of mineral salts in the lake. On the ice road for the first time: There are no enough words to describe the psychological impact that the entry onto the ice road had on me, it was absolutely stunning, one moment we were on a sandy track and bank and the next driving on thick ice in stunning weather, I had never experienced anything like it and was really awestruck by the beauty of what I was seeing. The views were magnificent and, given the timing of our arrival on the lake, the sunset was spectacular. I took lots of photos and videos of the scenery and sunset, some of the better ones are below. I am always careful with my anticipation of what I might see or experience but this was something special and unbelievable initially. We were on the road for over an hour stopping to take in the scenery, looking at the frozen waves and stalagmites on the rocky outcrops and exploring a few caves along the way. The photos have not been filtered or colours enhanced. Just as I saw the views.
We drove to Okhon Island which was going to be my home for the next few days. This is a very spiritual island and sacred to the Shaman traditions and I was looking forward to learning more about the culture and history of the Buryats from this region as well as visiting the major sites of interest as well. There are a series of Serges at Shamanka on Olkhon Island The indigenous Buryats, adherents of shamanism, believe the island to be a spiritual place; one of the groups of deities revered in Buryati yellow shamanism is called the oikony noyod, the “thirteen lords of Olkhon”. On the western coast, close to Khuzhir, is Baikal’s most famous landmark, the Shamanka, or Shaman’s Rock that the followers of shamanism believe that Burkhan, a modern religious cult figure of the Altai peoples, lives in the cave in this rock. This would be the highlight of the trip tomorrow. Once settled in the lodge, I walked around the site and to the entry point to the ice road and was struck by the purity of the air, the most wonderful views from the island and, more importantly the calmness and peace of the whole environment. I was really relaxed and calm and starting to fall under the Baikal spell. The village of Khuzhir was also the old fishing port for the island which was closed a number of years ago to protect the fish stock and also eliminate the pollution from the old fishing vessels. this adversely affected employment on the island naturally and close to the lodge the remains of the fishing business has been turned into a tourist site. I explored the sites before going to bed as they were close to the lodge. Just before going back to the lodge for a bit to eat, I saw interested to see a Soviet-era UAZ van driving off the lake and up to the village. I was told these are very popular for driving on the lake by the locals and drivers as they are simple to maintain, have very reliable and sturdy structures and spare parts easy to acquire. What struck me about this particular van was its number plate with dad’s initials on it (o842EP) and I took this as more than a coincidence and was over whelmed with a felling of his company on this journey, at least in the village and this part of the trip.
Standing close to the edge of the island and then entry point off the ice road, I saw some magnificent sunsets and sun rises in perfect skies and conditions (albeit below minus 35°C most of the time). The magnificence of nature was inspiring and left me at a loss of superlative words to describe the impact it had on me. I just kept taking photos and trying to capture the emotions of the moments clearly and precisely.
The added effect was related to my not communicating or talking to people most of the time. Apart from talking to the guide (who was staying in a Buryat guest house), I had stopped communicating and this isolation somehow managed to heighten the clarity of my thoughts and reflections and enabled me to process thoughts more clearly. There was no one to give me their impressions, thus making mine very personal and honest. In truth this was one of the unexpected results of the trip, by not communicating with people once I was out of Moscow, my impressions and emotions were unaffected by outside influences and although I was, in some senses, isolated, I was able to think clearly, process my emotions and appreciate the whole experience on Baikal in a more focussed manner. I became even more happier in my own company than normal. The whole experience was truly a wonderful time with this totally unexpected impact on me (which is still influencing me to some extent). The evening temperatures fell to below minus 35°C but even at that temperature I felt comfortable walking to the shore and around the area although the first full day on the island, in the same temperature range, I took my gloves off to take a few photos and within a minute or two lost the feeling in the finger tips on one hand which did not recover until a few months later, so no lasting damage was done. I found that the calmness and peace was so relaxing that I had the most wonderful deep sleep and when I awoke (early to see sunrise and then back to bed for a little longer sleep), I was ready for the day ahead. Next day we drove to one of the highest points of the island to gain perspective and to understand the nature of the island. Driving through forests of twisted and shaped pine and larch trees with wide and stilted root structure (which I was told was due the extreme winds and atmospheric pressure systems as well as poor sandy soil we entered a strange world of baren steppes landscape (although I was told that during the spring and summer, this lower area is covered with rhododendron trees which exist well in the sandy soil).
We drove back down to the village and then over to one of the most sacred serges on the island and had the chance to walk down to the outcrop itself. However, at a temperature below minus 40°C with the wind chill and the loss of felling in my fingers, we stayed at the rise of the hill and just looked at the sight as well as discuss the story of the Serge itself. The six pillars of the Serge are the most common photographed pictures of Baikal. My regret was that I could not hold the phone or camera long enough to focus it but I have resisted the urge to include a commercial photo from the internet.
We drove to the northern edge of the island, to see the Sasaan-Khushin Cape, have lunch and look around the area and discuss the legend of the three rocks. It was interesting that there were a few tourist vans and cars but it was relatively quiet, which apparently was not unusual at this time of the year. The temperature had risen to minus 22°C but the wind had dropped as well, making it more bearable (although the circulation in my fingers was still frozen). The road passed some really interesting ice formations and stalactites. It was just overwhelming and I was captivated by the sights and could not stop taking photos. There was so much to take in and appreciate. In many respects it was overwhelming. To show how quiet and isolated we were, here are a few photos of the drive up to the Cape and then the Rock formations themselves and finally the ice formations around the base of the rocks in this area. This was the most northern point of the island and also Lake Baikal’s widest point as well.
Essentially the legend of “Three Brothers Rock, or Sagaan-Khushun Cape” is very interesting and is one of the main attractions to the island. According to Buryatian legend, there once lived three brothers on Olkhon Island whose father had supernatural powers. Once, their father turned them into eagles but only on the condition that they would not eat dead meat. The brothers were extremely happy with their newly gained freedom as eagles and decided to fly around the island after promising not to eat dead meat. However, when they were flying around the island, they became hungry and found a dead animal. Despite their promises to their father, they ate this dead animal. When their father learned about it, he was furious and turned them into the three rocks.
This part of the Island is very popular for tourists to have fish soup or other cooked meals on the ice and also sample the “Baikal kick” drink out of a drilled piece of ice (which made me quite ill as it was a mixture of alcohol and local herbs and berries). Many tourists carve ice markers and shapes out of the ice as well as below which is really interesting but the few carvings and people on the ice brought home to me the isolation of the lake in the winter. There were a few Russian tourists and a few school trips but no other foreigners as far as I could ascertain. I was really privileged to be there and to have such emotional and thoughtful experience (even if I lost the feeling in my fingers).