​Train from Moscow Rossiya 002 to Yekaterinburg
7th February 2022
Leaving the hotel for the Yaroslavsky train station was the real start of the trip, walking through the security screening, looking at the people waiting to board a number of long-distance trains and not certain of what to expect, I strode onto the main waiting area outside to wait for the train to arrive and then board. Oblivious to the cold, snow and ice I watched people rushing to catch trains, some rather drunk, missing trains and at least one man being dragged off a platform by security workers.
Train signs were in Russian and English and it was easy to understand the platform number and carriage position. It seemed an eternity waiting for the train in the cold and blowing snow but I did not want to wait in the station and risk missing the train (I can get distracted). It was also interesting to be honest to watch the world go by, the realise how busy the station was and also the types of people who travel by train.
On time the train arrived at platform 1 and the adventure was about the start. Walking to the platform there was a feeling of anticipation and also nervousness about the challenges I was about to meet in addition to the awareness that I am not Russian and unease about the number of police and security people in the station area. At least I was not standing out as a foreigner and also, I tried to blend in with the rest of the passengers.
On seeing the train stop and the lights go on (with carriage attendants waiting by the doors), I walked past the restaurant car and was immediately a little disappointed at how unappealing it looked and decided that until I knew my way around, I would just stay in the cabin and see how things worked. Thankfully I had plenty of packets of soup and Welsh tea for sustenance as well as lots of bottled water
Each carriage has its own manager and assistant and prior to boarding (in the snow and temperature of around minus 15°C), I had to wait in turn to pass identity checks (this was worrying as I obviously had a UK passport and stood out from the others) but there was no problem and with a polite look at my passport , the carriage manager let me go on the carriage and then it was straight to my cabin (the travel agents had booked the same carriage number and cabin number to make things easy for myself, which was really appreciated).
The lights were off in the cabin and when I slid opened the door, was very disheartening on first glance. Dark, dismal and depressing which was made worse by the fact that the temperature in the train was +28°C and I had just come from Minus 15°C, sweating profusely, I fumbled for the light switch and threw my hat onto the table.
What had I let myself in for and the thought of a 2 night stay in the dismal cabin was not really exciting me?  But I had no choice but to make the best of it and sort myself out and prepare for the journey to Yekaterinburg.

On looking around I started to have a better impression of the carriage and cabin. The corridor was spotless and the cabin appeared very clean and fresh with 4 beds and a small table by the window.  Once the lights were on, things looked more positive and when the manager came round to the cabin, he put the two upper beds away (with their sheets, towels and covers strapped in which disappointed me as I was planning to spend time in each bed as I had paid for then. But life is full of disappointments), and suddenly the room looked more inviting.
Now I felt better, the cabin was not so bad and I felt that once I had a good night sleep, I would feel positive and more focussed on enjoying the adventure of the journey.
After putting the supplies on the table, bemoaning that I had decided not to take some more food and generally sorting out the bags and electric points, the train left the station and the journey started. I sat watching the train leaving Moscow and then went straight to bed which was folded down and ready made up to sleep. The carriage manager came round and quickly folded up the top bunk beds (finishing my plan to sleep in all 4 beds) but psychologically the cabin looked roomier and brighter. My mood was definitely improving.
What I was not aware of was that every 2 to 3 hours the train stopped for about 20-30 minutes for engine changes and also as it was the middle of winter at every station (large or small) wheel- tapper would work on the brakes and springs hitting ice build-up away. So, there was no chance for continuous sleep with the noise of the hammers hitting the gears below my cabin. It was not a peaceful sleep and I had to get used to the movement of the train and occasional sharp sudden movements as well as occasional stops at smaller stations. Some drivers were smoother than others which meant that there was a regular rhythm of the train for a few hours, break for up to 30 minutes and then another driver would have his own rhythm. I had no choice but to get used to this but tiredness and some nervous exhaustion definitely helped
Once up after the first night disturbed sleep I realised that looking out of the window, listening to music and reading my book was going to be the pattern for the next few days
I then had to get used to continuously moving scenery (how many trees, villages and frozen scenes can you look at?) and watching the countryside flying by. The door of the cabin had a large mirror on it, so that the cabin looked larger and gave the impression of a larger space. The luggage was under the seats and everything packed away easily. Now it was just a matter of getting used to a new regime of passing the day, reading. listening to music and watching the world go by.
Also, during the day, the carriage attendant came in every few hours to hoover the carpet and tidy the table and room generally. They also offered tea continuously. But no conversation at all. This was something that I had to appreciate, the solitude and quiet with no real interaction with people unless I went to the restaurant car and interacted with other passengers. Not really something that I really wanted to get involved in.
I soon got into a pattern and routine and tried to take the time in the cabin as a rest from the world and the need for interaction with people. This became very therapeutic and in fact I quite liked the silence and peace. We stopped some stations along the way, passed through towns, cities and small villages and gave me time to think about many things I had not had time to focus on over the years. The train was going to be “Michael Time “.
Thankfully I was not aware of talking to myself and in fact I found myself the calmest I had been for a long time. The isolation was also highlighted the fact that I had no access to news or family communication unless the train was in a station where there was a strong phone signal and Wi-Fi signal. Most of the time there was nothing.

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